The city and all that she is continues to sink in. It's a long time to be away. (I think I may be killing my poor husband softly) but there really is no substitute for experience. Time has a way of working on us. That being said, the longer I'm here, the more I come to understand things more intrinsically. And I'm grateful for the opportunity to study here under such wonderful people. For instance, I was able to have a lecture and tour from Gabby Barkay--one of 6 archaeologists in the world to get the Israel archaeology award. He is also attributed with finding the silver amulet containing the priestly blessing that is the oldest known proof of the bible.
Pee bandit update: turns out there are MANY pee bandits in the city in addition to the raging one whom I dorm with. My quandary continues. I guess the final stage left for me is resignation. I will also refrain from detailing the dark whiskers left in the sink and on the soap each morning--I use my own anti-bac more religiously than the deacons in the Holy Seplchre--and the fermenting mix of cottage cheese and corn flakes sitting in the sink. Dorm life!!! I do my own thing, in my own room. Yogurt. Pitas. Nuts. You would think the holy land would teach me to be of service to my fellow beings, but I have clearly not been able to repeatedly clean up after slobs. What a saint I am not.
On to livelier things! This week we experienced a shift in context as we began to unwrap the profound transformation of Jerusalem during the Byzantine period. It really is incredible to think that such a massively Jewish state could adopt a completely new culture over the course of 300 years. Visiting some of the Christian sites in the Armenian Quarter was really quite fantastic. Even more interesting to see this evolution of a Judeo-Christian faith that began to incorporate elements of both faiths. Thursday we were able to visit Dormition Abbey--the place where Mary slept, which is now run and owned by Germans. It was a beautiful peaceful cathedral containing a shrine to Mary and other prominent women in the Old Testament. Surrounding that shrine, were other niches offered up to be decorated by many other countries. I especially liked the Ethiopian one. And I really enjoyed the spirit of oneness that seemed to be a part of the culture there.
(And due to more technical difficulties, I'm just going to have to post all of the pictures right here. Hopefully, you can match them up yourselves).
We also visited the room of the last supper, which is, interestingly enough right above the supposed tomb of King David and which was also turned into a Muslim mosque. Are you starting to get a feel for how all of these places bleed into each other.? Build, destroy, rebuild. Stake a new claim. Remodel. Take back. During the Jordanian occupation of the 1950-60s, the Jewish quarter and western wall belonged to Jordan. So as the next best option, Jews would visit the tomb of King David to read Torah scrolls and pray. A practice which still continues to this day. All three under the same roof.
Speaking of the Western Wall, I was finally able to visit it and place Indiana's prayer inside it. It was one of the more profound spiritual experiences I've relished here. The women are separated from the men, and it was wonderful to be there with them, praying, touching the wall, offering up the desires of my heart. Standing next to it, I let my forehead touch the wall and just "felt a prayer" as Anne of Green Gables would say. It was lovely to just BE and add my small soul as part of the reverent spirit there.
Before that, monumental moment! We were able to make it up to the Temple Mount! I had a feeling things were a bit calmer than they have been so we took the opportunity. After three safety checks and passing an Israeli swat team, we finally got on top. It is MUCH bigger then you would expect it to be! It's an entire complex! The Dome of the Rock is very beautiful. Just think, in Herod's time, the doors hit where the top of the dome is today! It was a massive structure. We were three of about 14 white people in the whole complex. It was interesting, but you had a real sense of foreboding as you walked around--Like you really didn't belong there. So when we felt completely outnumbered we left and visited the western wall. The other stop that morning was the Pools of Bethesda. They are just in ruins, but St Anne's church is a lovely little church. Amazing acoustics. The priest there invited us to sing--admittedly, it was the ONE time in my life that I wished I could. Such a heavenly reverberation on those walls, now owned by the French. You see, everyone wants a piece of Jerusalem!!!! Everyone. The Temple Mount is the most disputed piece of real estate in the world! My prediction is that the end of days kicks off there. high, high tensions. I wish each faith could have a temple up there. Let everyone come and worship in the way the feel most!! There's room for everyone!
Later that day, we traveled to TeL Aviv, found a beach and plopped down. We had heard so much of the beaches there. They were nice, although I liked Ceaserea much better. Nobody was there! Turns put they had had air raid sirens all morning. What can I say, ignorance is bliss? Then we traveled to the chocolate Mecca here--Max Brenner and had some soul chocolate. I have converted two more disciples to this way of eating. As a side note, I've been praying all of last week to know better the angels--seen and unseen--who surround me. In Tel Aviv, we only met one man who spoke English. He was at the beach and helped us out when someone wanted to overcharge us. When we couldn't find a way back to th bus, he walked by and helped us again. Turns out th bus was four blocks away and two blocks right of wher it dropped us off. We certainly would not have found it. This rough looking man had lived in the US and seen some hard things in life. But he was an angel to me. I know there are many more around me--I've Been protected and calm and buoyed up and I know it's by the hand of The Lord on my days and nights.
The other war zone here is th Church of the Holy Seplchre. We spent five hours in there and all I saw was contention between the sects. It was discouraging for such a holy site. But it just reinforces what I've come to understand here. The sites and often incorrect or unsubstantiated at best. I feel many are gone or buried. And in th end, the sites don't matter. What matters is what Jesus was able to do here. He doesn't care about real estate or the ceremonies that are designed to worship him. He would have us "go and do likewise," "feed his lambs" show our love and apprciation though our treatment of others and our actions as we go about "doing good." His living testimony would also ask us to live for him and others rather than worship an empty tomb. I honestly believe we can see the paths he has walked and know him as intimately in I our own place as we can in th Holy city. We only need invite him in.
I'm down to about a week left. It seems impossible that the days here are coming to a close. I think I will miss this city and all of her complexities and beauties terribly. That being said, one more day of dorm life with pee bandits and whisker leaving hairy men than is required may just do me in. And I can't wait To be with my family!!! We're almost there guys! We can do this!
Xoxoxo to all of you!
I love the way you write, you adventure is fascinating. Hope all is well.
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